Kate Hipkin on collaboration, applied innovation and the future of the intimate apparel industry.

As the intimate apparel industry navigates sustainability challenges, technological advances and changing consumer expectations, one question deserves greater attention: are the relationships between brands and their suppliers evolving at the same pace as the industry itself?

At Interfilière Shanghai 2026, designer Kate Hipkin drew on her extensive industry experience to challenge conventional thinking about supply chain relationships, innovation and the role of Chinese manufacturers in the global market.

Her central message was clear: the industry may not need more innovation for innovation’s sake. What it needs is a different way of working together — one built on shared knowledge, mutual trust and a collective commitment to solving real problems.

These discussions reflect the broader industry priorities highlighted in the Interfilière Shanghai 2026 exhibition programme, where collaboration, material innovation and manufacturing expertise are increasingly interconnected.

01. Beyond the Supply Chain: Building Real Partnerships

With the introduction of initiatives such as the Digital Product Passport (DPP), the term “supply chain partners” is becoming increasingly common. But Kate encouraged the industry to look beyond the language.

Simply calling someone a partner does not make them one. If information and instructions still move up and down the supply chain, the underlying relationship has not fundamentally changed.

As an international platform connecting brands, suppliers and manufacturers, Interfilière Shanghai provides opportunities for industry professionals to explore new sourcing relationships and strengthen cooperation across the intimate apparel value chain.

True partnership requires more conversation, shared experience and the confidence to challenge one another. Brands need to involve suppliers in discussions about product challenges, while suppliers should feel empowered to contribute their expertise and propose alternative solutions.

Kate suggested moving beyond the idea of “supply chain partners” towards something more meaningful: “supply partners” — a relationship based on genuine collaboration rather than a traditional chain of instructions and delivery.

It is not simply a change in terminology. It is a shift in how the industry works together.

02. Collaboration as a Competitive Advantage

Competition has long shaped relationships between brands, manufacturers and suppliers. But Kate questioned whether collaboration could become an equally powerful competitive advantage.

She offered the analogy of an orchestra. A first violinist may spend years mastering their instrument, but that does not mean they need to learn every other instrument. Likewise, a conductor's value lies not in playing every part better than everyone else, but in recognising the strengths of each musician and bringing them together to create something greater than any individual could achieve alone.

The same principle applies to the intimate apparel industry.

No single company needs to have all the answers. Brands, fabric mills, trim suppliers and manufacturers can bring complementary expertise to the table, working together rather than trying to become experts in everything.

Cross-border dialogue is also essential to building stronger industry relationships, as demonstrated by the China-Japan intimate apparel industry exchange, which created opportunities for sourcing discussions and potential business partnerships.

Kate also emphasised that meaningful progress does not require perfection from the outset. Building more sustainable, circular and flexible supply networks takes time. The priority should be to make practical progress, step by step, rather than expect the entire industry to transform overnight.

03. Rethinking Innovation: From Newness to Real-World Solutions

Innovation has been a major focus for the industry in recent years. New fibres, materials, manufacturing processes and technologies continue to emerge, offering exciting possibilities.

But Kate raised an important question: What is innovation worth if it does not solve a real problem?

A new material or technology may look impressive in isolation, but its value depends on whether it can be applied effectively, integrated into a complete product and contribute to a wider solution.

Intimate apparel also has its own specific requirements. Rather than simply adopting solutions developed for other apparel sectors, the industry needs to start with the challenges unique to its own products and consumers.

The industry's transition towards more responsible materials is also explored in our coverage of sustainable textile innovation and textile-to-textile circularity.

Comfort, durability, washability and the emotional connection consumers have with their intimate garments are all qualities the industry already understands how to deliver. The challenge is not to replace everything that exists, but to identify what should be preserved, what needs to change and where innovation can make a genuine difference.

Kate highlighted the importance of looking at the bigger picture. A more advanced fabric, lace, trim or elastic may be rejected if it is assessed simply as a more expensive alternative to an existing component. But when complementary solutions are considered together, they may improve the economics and environmental impact of the entire product.

The goal is not innovation for show, but practical, measurable problem-solving that brands can understand, justify and afford.

04. Revaluing Chinese Manufacturing: Expertise Beyond Price and Speed

Addressing the question of how Chinese suppliers can better position themselves with Western designers and international brands, Kate offered a direct message: it is time to recognise the value and expertise that Chinese manufacturers already bring to the global industry.

For many years, Chinese manufacturers have been recognised for their competitive pricing, production capacity and speed of delivery. These remain important strengths, but they are no longer enough to establish lasting differentiation.

Price can be undercut. Speed can be matched. Machinery can be purchased and processes can be copied.

But expertise, established relationships, problem-solving capabilities, accumulated knowledge and trust are much harder to replicate.

Kate encouraged Chinese manufacturers to rethink how they present themselves to the market. Rather than trying to be everything to everyone or constantly chasing the next order, they should identify what they do exceptionally well and build their identity around those strengths.

The growing importance of manufacturing expertise can also be seen in Chinese intimate apparel suppliers combining traditional craftsmanship with technological innovation, demonstrating how technical knowledge and production capabilities can support product development.

This also means taking a more active role in product development. Ask more questions. Understand the challenges brands are trying to address. Share knowledge of materials, manufacturing processes, machinery, waste reduction, efficiency and what can realistically be achieved at scale.

And when a brief could be approached more effectively, have the confidence to challenge it.

The conversation needs to move beyond simply showing brands what can be made, towards explaining the expertise behind how it can be made — and how that knowledge can help create a better product.

05. A New Way Forward: Understanding Before Selling

In closing, Kate returned to a fundamental question: if the industry wants to change how intimate apparel made in China is perceived internationally, what needs to change?

Her answer was not to sell harder, but to understand and communicate better.

When a brand asks a supplier, “Can you make this product?”, the conversation could begin with a different question: “What problem are we trying to solve, and what can I bring to help solve it better?”

Consumers will continue to expect competitive prices, reliable volumes and fast delivery. But these established strengths can coexist with a new proposition built on expertise, innovation and meaningful collaboration.

Chinese manufacturing has the opportunity to be recognised not only for its production capabilities, but also for the knowledge, creativity and problem-solving expertise that drive the industry forward.

As Kate encouraged the audience, the conversation should not end with the presentation. It should continue across the industry, creating more opportunities to question established ways of working, share knowledge and build stronger relationships.

Perhaps the next stage of progress for intimate apparel will not come from any single breakthrough, but from what the industry can achieve when it starts working together differently.