As the global fashion industry increasingly emphasizes sustainability and cultural heritage, silk-a natural fiber that embodies both oriental aesthetics and eco-conscious qualities-is experiencing a renewed appreciation for its unique appeal. 

INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI, an international exhibition brand originating in Paris and deeply rooted in the lingerie, swimwear, and activewear supply chain, has been held at the Shanghai Exhibition Center since 2005. It has become a key platform connecting Eastern aesthetics with the international lingerie market.

In 2025, the exhibition will feature a silk-themed zone under the perspective of a “New Narrative of Oriental Aesthetics,” aiming to explore silk’s new roles and opportunities in modern fashion through the dual lens of oriental characteristics and sustainability.

To support this initiative, we conducted an in-depth interview with Professor Lu Cheng from the Fashion Brand Research Center of Donghua University. This conversation not only examined the historical and cultural value of silk but also analyzed its contemporary market challenges and opportunities-particularly how to revitalize this ancient fiber through sustainable practices and its relevance to current lingerie trends-offering valuable ideas and inspiration for the design of the themed zone.

INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI × Donghua University

Sustainable Silk Interview Summary
Moderator: Lu Cheng (Professor, Fashion Brand Research Center, Donghua University)
Guests:

· May: Director of INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI

· Nicole: Marketing Manager of INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI

· Zhu: Graduate Student, Donghua University

PART 1: What Kind of Exhibition is INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI?

Lu Cheng: Could you please introduce INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI and its background?
May: INTERFILIÈRE is an international exhibition brand that originated in Paris, France, with over 60 years of experience in the lingerie, swimwear, and activewear supply chain. Our parent event in Paris dates back to 1963.

Since 2005, INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI has been held at the Shanghai Exhibition Center. It is the only exhibition in the INTERFILIÈRE series rooted in the East and serves as a vital platform linking Eastern aesthetics with the international market.

INTERFILIÈRE benefits from the combined professional expertise of its two major stakeholders: Comexposium, the world’s fourth-largest organizer of trade and consumer exhibitions, and the Fédération de la Maille, de la Lingerie & du Balnéaire, the French Federation for Knitwear, Lingerie, and Swimwear.

PART 2: Why Choose “Sustainable Silk”?

Lu Cheng: Why did you propose a special silk intimate fashion zone this year? What considerations were behind this decision? Is it related to the industry’s current transformation?
May: We have given this a lot of thought and can summarize it into five main reasons:

1. Cultural Narrative: Silk is a symbol of Chinese culture and has a powerful capacity to convey oriental aesthetics.

2. Exhibition Positioning: Silk’s luster, cooling sensation, and skin-friendly properties are highly suitable for lingerie, loungewear, and sleepwear.

3. Market Trend Alignment: Wireless, seamless, and cooling are popular trends, and silk naturally possesses these attributes. Moreover, its biodegradability and eco-friendliness make it a model sustainable solution. 

4. Reviving Tradition, Engaging Youth: Trends such as “New Chinese Style” and “Old Money Aesthetic” are catalyzing a silk revival. Many young brands are reshaping silk’s image through social media.

5. Supporting Global Expansion: Although many international luxury brands claim to use “Italian silk,” much of the raw material actually originates in China. We hope to enhance China’s global voice in the silk industry through the exhibition.

Additionally, we discussed this with French fashion expert Jos Berry from CONCEPTS PARIS, who noted: “Virtually every premium brand includes some silk products.”

PART 3: Current Status and Challenges of the Silk Industry

Lu Cheng: We've long been paying attention to the silk industry, but in reality, many misconceptions still exist, especially among younger consumers. What’s your perspective?
May: The most common feedback we hear is that silk is “expensive, delicate, and difficult to care for.” We’ve communicated with many brands while preparing the exhibition, and their feedback has been quite consistent.

However, we are seeing some changes. Emerging brands are reshaping the image of silk among younger audiences through concepts like “machine-washable silk” and “functional design.” Brands like Her Senses, CremeSu, and atelier intimo are notable examples.

Lu Cheng: I believe the core issue is a lack of contextual storytelling. It’s not that silk is inherently problematic, but that it hasn’t been placed in life scenarios that emotionally resonate with people. Just like outdoor brands talk about community and adventure, silk also needs an emotionally compelling narrative structure.

PART 4: How to Tell Silk’s Story Within a “Sustainable” Framework

Nicole: While preparing the exhibition, we also asked ourselves-silk is clearly a natural material with strong sustainability attributes, so why don’t consumers feel it?

Lu Cheng: The core problem is that the concept of “sustainability” has become too generalized. We need to break it down:

· Biodegradability: Natural protein fibers like silk are far more biodegradable than synthetic fibers. Interestingly, in ancient times, durability was actually prized-silk garments found in tombs have been preserved for centuries.

· Dyeing and Finishing: While silk itself is eco-friendly, chemical dyes used in dyeing and finishing processes require scrutiny. Using natural dyes or reducing water in the dyeing process can improve sustainability.

· Recycling: The technical aspect is not the problem-market volume is. Without a closed-loop value model, recycling lacks feasibility. If silk consumption grows, recycling mechanisms become meaningful.

Nicole：That’s why we hope the exhibition can connect the entire value chain-from raw materials to design to consumers-and reshape the narrative of silk within sustainable fashion.

PART 5: Exhibition Execution Details and Planning of the Silk-Themed Zone

Lu Cheng: Could you introduce the specific arrangements for the silk zone in this year’s exhibition?
May: This year, we’re adopting a “static display + dynamic interaction” approach. On one hand, we will showcase the complete chain-from sericulture, reeling, weaving, dyeing and finishing, design to ready-to-wear. On the other, we will host forums, launches, and diverse exchanges.

We’ll set up a “Silk Culture Wall” and a “Functional Innovation Booth,” inviting international experts, brand representatives, and academic institutions to participate. We also hope to feature research projects and student works from universities.

Our forum discussions will focus on topics like:

· Opportunities for silk in the global high-end market

· How to connect with Gen Z through design

· How to translate sustainable materials into brand value

Lu Cheng: From a sustainability perspective, if we’re to take substantive action, the key lies in supply chain traceability. During this process, we often discover that luxury brands’ supply chains can be traced back to Italian mills, and further upstream, to Chinese raw silk origins, even specific ecological regions.

If we can transparently present the entire supply chain to consumers, it would significantly advance sustainable development in the silk industry.

May: In addition to inviting Chinese industry experts, we’ll also bring in professionals from France and Thailand to foster international exchange.

This year in Shanghai, we aim to share the Chinese story behind silk with a broader audience. In the future, we hope to bring both the story and high-quality products of Chinese silk to more prestigious global stages, such as INTERFILIÈRE PARIS and INTERFILIÈRE NEW YORK.

Although many international buyers believe Italian silk is the best, the finest raw materials actually come from China. We hope to let the world recognize the exceptional quality of Chinese silk.

During brand communications, we found that many brands already acknowledge the quality of Chinese silk. However, from a marketing perspective, high-end brands prioritize international recognition that matches their pricing-hence the preference for Italy in branding. This highlights the disparity in international voice and brand premium between Chinese and Italian silk.

As Professor Lu said, the quality of Chinese silk is unparalleled, but its influence in the international fashion arena still needs to grow. China's silk industry is still heavily concentrated on raw material production and processing, with noticeable gaps in brand building and consumer influence.

PART 6: Silk and the Young Consumer Demographic

Lu Cheng: Have you observed new industry trends of silk among young people?
May: Yes, especially the popularity of the “New Chinese Style,” which has led many young consumers to rediscover silk. Brands like CremeSu and Her Senses have been highly successful on social media.

We’ve also noticed young people value materials that are comfortable, easy to care for, and visually memorable. So this year, we plan to spotlight new techniques like machine-washable silk and seamless silk lingerie.

We want to integrate silk into contemporary narratives through scenario-based design and social language, rather than letting it remain a symbol of gowns and aristocratic lifestyles.

Lu Cheng: I’d like to hear from Zhu, as a representative of the younger generation. What are your expectations and thoughts about a sustainable silk exhibition?
Zhu: Honestly, like many students, our first impression of silk is that it’s “expensive” and “high-maintenance.” Both the purchase cost and care requirements feel intimidating. But if the exhibition can show that silk isn’t just a traditional art form, but something that can be made into silk intimate pieces like bras and other everyday items, we’d be very open to it.

At our university, we often participate in silk heritage design competitions with high student engagement. This shows there is genuine interest among youth in innovating silk.

That said, the cost issue is real. From silkworm rearing to reeling, labor is intensive-this is inherent to natural fibers.

On the flip side, because silkworms are highly sensitive to the environment, regions that produce high-quality silk naturally boast good ecosystems. This becomes silk’s best quality assurance. It’s like how a classmate of mine spent 3,000 yuan on an outdoor vest-not cheap, but worth it because the brand communicated a complete outdoor lifestyle.

Lu Cheng: That’s a great example. Young people aren’t unwilling to spend, but they want to invest in values they believe in. What silk lacks is such scenario-based positioning-those moments when consumers feel, “This is the only choice.”

Zhu: Absolutely. For example, during graduation season, many students buy silk “cloud shoulder” accessories for their academic gowns. That’s a great example of silk appealing to younger demographics.

If we could promote silk in a more relatable way-like Li Ziqi does with lifestyle content-and pair it with community-building, young people would naturally embrace it.

Lu Cheng: To summarize, attracting young consumers isn’t about lowering prices, but making them feel it’s worth it. Through everyday product development, scenario-based marketing, and community engagement, we can break the stereotype of silk being “high-cost and hard to use.”

Meanwhile, China’s silk industry must also extend from raw materials to branding and elevate its international influence.

PART 7: Industry Chain Integration – Connecting Upstream and Downstream

Lu Cheng: The upstream of the silk supply chain-like reeling and weaving-is still quite traditional. How does the exhibition bridge the gap between upstream and downstream?
May: We hope the exhibition can clearly communicate the full industry chain-not just selling products but explaining the “cocoon-to-clothing” logic.

This year, we’ve invited several tech-driven brands to share how they’re using new technologies to transform traditional processes, including intelligent inspection, AI pattern design, and eco-friendly dyeing and finishing.

Lu Cheng: The wearing experience of silk products largely depends on our appreciation of texture. Based on my own experience, silk garments don’t require excessive care. The belief that silk needs meticulous maintenance is more about reverence than practicality. In fact, silk fabrics like crepe or gauze can be casually handled, and water-washing can even enhance their texture.

Of course, satin-type silks, which aim for a glossy appearance, do require extra care-but we don’t wear those often in daily life.

What’s more important is the stunning diversity of modern silk products:

· Knitted Silk: Some renowned domestic brands are spinning silk into yarns for knitting, breaking the stereotype of silk being smooth and flat and giving it an incredibly soft texture.

· Brushed Silk Scarves: A brushing technique makes filament fibers fluffy, combining silk’s skin-friendliness with excellent warmth, challenging the belief that silk is only for summer.

· Xiangyun Silk: This traditional fermented silk undergoes special processing to retain silk’s close-to-skin qualities while achieving ideal shaping and silhouette.

These innovations prove that combining traditional craftsmanship with modern technology has led to a qualitative leap in silk products.

What’s now essential is to build an effective communication platform that centralizes these innovations and helps consumers overcome traditional preconceptions about silk.

Looking Ahead to 2025 – We look forward to seeing you at the INTERFILIÈRE Silk Intimate Fashion Zone!

To stay informed on the latest trends in domestic and international intimate apparel brands, you won’t want to miss the multidimensional perspectives provided by INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI-ranging from fit and functionality to wearability, environmental impact, and future visions.

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INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI is an international leading body fashion show that has been serving the China's market for 20 years. INTERFILIÈRE SHANGHAI 2024 offers you the cutting-edge perspective and resources for the global intimate apparel body fashion industry, helps all exhibitors enhance brand influence in both domestic and overseas markets, and accelerates all attendees’ business development as well as the intimate apparel body fashion industry continuously breaking through aesthetic accomplishments from garments, accessories to apparels, and gaining insight into the latest fashion lifestyle trends.

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